Prato as an example for European norms: “System to be protected, textile waste for recycling,” say De Salvo (Corertex) and Tesi (Astri) in defense of the reuse business. “Extending the waste status endangers our circular economy.”
The End of Waste for textiles and the regulation that will govern it at the European level are among the priorities of Corertex (Consortium for the reuse and recycling of textiles) and Astri (Italian Recycled Textile Association), which have formed a pact to strengthen the district. They sent a contribution to the Jrc (Joint Research Centre), the European Commission’s Joint Research Centre for Science and Knowledge, addressing questions and potential issues with the new End of Waste textile regulations.
The associations argue that extending the waste status of a material in the reuse and recycling process would create problems for the industry, forcing shredding and rag companies to be classified as waste management companies, with all the associated authorization and bureaucratic problems. Following the Prato model, which is improvable, Corertex focuses on reuse, while Astri on recycling, aiming to assist the European Commission in developing effective regulations.
The draft decree considers reuse, recycling, and recovery targets of 50% by 2035, without specifying individual quantities. Tesi and De Salvo highlight the risk that energy recovery, such as in incinerators, might be favored over reuse and recycling. Currently, the district already achieves 97% efficiency in reuse and recycling, discarding only 3% of the material.
Astri and Corertex also raised issues such as balancing environmental sustainability and economic efficiency, and the social and inclusive aspect of used clothing collection cooperatives. They suggest the establishment of a monitoring and guarantee committee within the future Textile Recycling Coordination Center (Corit), involving stakeholders from the entire supply chain.
The Pitti Filati event in Florence showcases the Spring/Summer 2025 collections of knitting yarns. Among the 115 exhibitors, 28 are from the district, demonstrating the strength and determination of Prato’s entrepreneurs, especially following the flood of November 2. Exhibitors such as Ctf srl, Casa del filato srl, Cofil srl, and others show the district’s resilience.
In 2023, production in the district decreased by 10.3% compared to 2022, a number expected to worsen due to the flood and the performance in the last quarter. Exports realized a decrease of 14.5% compared to the corresponding period of 2022.
Written by Sara Bessi
